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That just about sums up all forums in general, quick to scoff and judge and too prideful to give praise to people that actually take time to make videos/ forum posts

G'day Mark. It was for a Browning or Winchester Super Short Magnum rifle.

Thanks Stu. That plate was used for the bottom lever on a Ferguson flintlock that I was building at the time for a friend who is nearly finished doing the stock. You can't rush these things mate. 🤣

Nah. It was just costing and not making anything for me. I'm just busy with my own stuff now. Got one more gun to build. A 58cal LH muzzleloader for myself. Maybe put a bit of it up here. If I remember too, that is. 🤣

Hawkesbury River bullets are very hard (Monotype?) and have to be a perfect fit in your barrel to even give some accuracy. I used to use wheel weight alloy in my old SMLE, cast in the Lyman 314299 mould and gas checked, but had to keep the velocity below 1350fps, but the rifling was worn. Now in the HRBCo Martini I have, I shoot the same 215gr GC bullet, but cast from Lyman #2 alloy and with aluminium gas checks. They shoot best at about 1400fps. The barrel is a four groove .312" groove dia and I size them to match that. Lead bullets HAVE to be groove size or + 0.0005" more. You need to slug the bore or better still have a chamber cast done and measure the throat diameter and match the bullet dia to that. That's the secret and not too hard with the alloy. Hope this helps mate.

G’day Fishoot. Thanks for the reminder. I’ve been retired now for 5+ years! 😅 And never busier! I will see what I can rustle up for you. Cheers from downunda. 🍻

If you're in the USA, get some O1 drill rod, or downunda it's called Silver Steel, or precision ground tool steel rod.

Thank you pieterveenders9793. As I've written before, after boring this barrel, I phoned a professional barrel maker friend of mine and asked him what his deep hole drilling machines accuracy was and he said that he would be very happy to get my .009" runout all the time. 😁

@@Afro408 did you do any stress relieving of the drilled blank afterwards, or send it off to a professional stress reliever? I hear that vibration stress relief is the hot new thing these days, especially for long cylindrical objects such as a barrel blank, and without the risk of warpage like traditional over stress relief. All you need is an electric motor of approximately 0,5-1 kW for an blank this size, with an offset weight on the axle to produce the vibrations, an accelerometer attached to it connected to a microcontroller board such as an Arduino and to programe the whole thing so it will gradually go from 0 to several thousand RPM at a slow enough pace and plot the accelerometer values against the RPM. Once it reaches resonance, it will show a large spike in the accelerometer, which is the RPM you want to remain at for approximately 2000 revolutions of the motor.

Thank you Michael. Unfortunately it hasn't had any use for a long time. I'm too busy making knives at the moment, but I have that one barrel, the one in the 'Boring a barrel blank' video, to rifle .

Now you're testing my terrible memory! 😅 I don't think so. Good luck with your build Jeff. Cheers.

Yes it is. That's what the L in 12L14 stands for.

The JCE is based on the 300 SSW case. It has a slight shoulder to head space on and fires light hollow copper bullets. It was designed to reach min power rating for Big Game Rifle comp, in the shortest possible available cartridge. 3900 ft lb I think.

@@Afro408 Do you mean the 300 WSM?

@@CharizardFan_og There are so many acronyms that I don't know, but it's the Super Short case WSSM and the actions they are using are either the Winchester or Browning.

Go ahead. 👍🏼😁

Yep. It’s all been invented before. 😁

It is definitely lively! 🤣 and no one else at the range wanted to have a go. 🤷‍♂️ don’t understand it myself. Rifle weighs 10lb as well.

Ah, I don’t know, but this one is marketed as an AL 360. It has a gap bed and 36” between centres. Been a real workhorse for my gunsmithing and general machining. Check out the video on machining the horn on a small anvil. 😉

Thank you! 🙏🏻 😁 Subscribed your channel. 👍

Hello Pablo. It is based on the Greener .310 Cadet case and I used several necking dies to bring it down to the .17 calibre. Looking at this video, I realise how poor the quality is 😅 sorry! I should have done better, but I would forget to film the different stages involved. 🤷‍♂️ I have some load data from my records. I first tried ADI 2207 and 12gr of it gave me an average speed of 3200 fps firing a 25gr Hornady HP. This powder was not accurate and I was getting unburnt powder left behind, so I tried BM2 and got 3150 fps average with the same bullet and accuracy was better. Next powder was Reloader 7 and I got about the same speed as with BM2, but accuracy was much better, with 11gr of Reloader7 shooting the 25gr Hornady HP bullet into .350”-.400” groups at 100yds! 😁👍 This little cartridge really performed better than expectations and it also loved to shoot the 20gr Z-Max bullet and was deadly on distant varmints. I used it for a few years, but ended up increasing the chamber to take another of my wildcats, which is a shortened and necked down 223 case ( plenty of brass available) and it is .090” longer than the 17 Fireball case. Shoot me an email at afro408@gmail.com if you want more info offline. 😁

Thanks for watching and your kind comment, but when the mind is strong and wants to keep going and the ageing body is compromised, then it becomes very difficult to honour your commitments. 🤷‍♂️ Spinal degeneration and crook feet don’t help. 😖 I still try and keep active doing little jobs for myself and relatives, but there are no time or money pressures.. 😁

@@Afro408 understandable, i wish you all the best.

Ask away Stewart. Did you see it gyrate? 😁 I’m using a D bit, because it is self steadying and can’t really do anything but follow its own hole. Unfortunately I don’t know when I’ll get the rifling done. Too much going on at the moment. 🤷‍♂️😅

Very well. It would be very hard to overload this type, because of how much the breech leaks.

@@Afro408 Excellent 💥

Hi Wesley. Thanks for the comment. I appreciate it. This barrel length is 32” and the caliber is .525” that is what it has been reamed to. The steel is 12L14, which is a lead bearing, free machining carbon steel. A 20” barrel would be no problem, but the secret is starting the bit with no runout. With this one I started the hole with a 31/64” twist drill, then bored the first inch of the hole to exactly the same size as the drill rod. If you do this, then you won’t have much runout at the other end. I already have a .52cal muzzle loader that I made in the early eighties and it has a 24” barrel. I didn’t know much about making a barrel, or even heard of a D bit and used a shot out 22-250 Varmint weight barrel that a friend of mine gave me. For that one I just welded an extension to a 1/2” twist drill and drilled the old bore out, machined the outside octagonal, then hand made the lock and the stock from a piece of local Tallow wood. The only part of the whole rifle that I didn’t make from scratch was the SS No11 nipple! 😁 The bore was as drilled and had a strange undulating spiral in it, but it shot quite well with a patched round ball and at 75yds, would put the first two shots within an inch of each other! I was pleased and very surprised! 😁 I hunted with it like that for 15 odd years and then decided to ream the bore smooth, because all the experts reckoned that a ‘Smoothbore’ had to have a mirror finish. Well, the accuracy dropped off dramatically and I couldn’t be sure of even hitting the target at 50yds, not just the bullseye. 😖😖👎 The only way to resurrect the barrel was to rifle it and that’s what I did. By using something like the old method, with a twisted square rod ( 1: 30 twist ) pulled through a matching plate and with a cutting bit on the end of it. It took a while to cut 8 deep grooves and they are a bit rough, but now it shoots again. 👍😁 I still use it and now I’m in the middle of making a new conical mould for it, because that’s why I made it with such a fast twist rate. If you have any other questions, I’d be happy to answer them. Cheers, Tony. 👍👋

@@Afro408 thanks for answering me, Tony. Yes, I have more doubts, forgive me! You shared in a replica, a link that talks about the history of gundrill, its beginning in the 20's as this D bit of your video and later in the 30's, the emergence of gundrill as we know it, with a V-slot and a channel for pumping oil. And that left me quite intrigued, because in the 1920s, large-caliber weapons were already being produced, such as the Browning .50 BMG. It's crazy to imagine that these barrels of these machine guns (which I believe due to the extreme pressure of this type of cartridge, used an alloy of chrome molybdenum or other very hard steel, correct?) were drilled with D bits? thanks for replying and thanks for allowing me to ask again! Hugs, Tony!

@@wesaderty I think Nickel steel barrels were being drilled from a blank in the late 1800’s and later Chrome-Moly steel was used, because it machined easier and had a higher tensile strength. Some Sulphur is added to make it easier to machine. Chrome- Moly steel is not very hard, but very strong. As soon as Tungsten Carbide was invented, that has been used for the deep hole drill bits, as well as high pressure lubricant forced down the hollow rod. It only takes a few minutes to drill a barrel blank now, because the bit doesn’t have to be withdrawn to clear the chips. I hope to be able to cut the rifling in this .52 barrel soon. I know I’ve been saying that ever since I put this video up, but there always seems to be something more important to do! 😅😅

@@Afro408 Hi Tony, I'm here again! I am amazed at all the technological innovation that man offers, but what really amazes me is how the things of the past are of good quality and with few resources. I have a OD 2" and 20" long chrome molybdenum round bar and I wanted to drill a 0.5" hole. And I wanted your advice on whether it would be better to use a high speed steel or carbide D-bit. In the case of high speed steel, I know it would be necessary to quench and temper, and in the case of carbide, would it also need to quench and temper? or would it be better to just use a carbide insert at the end of the shank? hugs, Tony!

@@wesaderty you can weld a piece of 1/2” dia HSS on to the end of a rod using stainless steel electrodes, I have done it before and then grind your D bit. You won’t need to heat treat the cutting edge, because the heat from the weld doesn’t soften it! I thought it would, but when I tried it it was still just as hard and that milling machine tool still cuts and is easy to sharpen. Remember though, your drilling rod must be very straight and that’s going to be hard to achieve. That is why I used a piece of O1 silver steel ( which the Americans call Drill rod, because that was what it was originally ) You can silver braze the HSS, or Carbide point onto the rod and that won’t effect the hardness either. Have you ever wondered why we ended up with the caliber sizes we have? I know I did! 😅 Look at the stock sizes of drill rod available and then you will understand. For instance: .22 cal most popular size. Starts out with a 13/64” ( .203” )drill rod, ream the drilled hole to 7/32” (.218”) bore and then cut the rifling to .224”, or 5.56mm. 😁 They would have done the same in Europe eg, 6.5mm drill rod hole, then reamed to 7mm bore. People used and still do, use what is available and only get something custom made when necessary.

Thanks Spruce Bug. No, it indicates the runout of the bore from the center line and is quite low by industry standards. A well started D bit won’t deviate much at all. This bore was reamed out later to .525”, but I still haven’t gotten around to rifling it. 🤷‍♂️ I’m old and tired. 🤣

@@Afro408 how do you make the rifling.. also with the barrel spinning.?

@@andrejochimsen498 Not on this machine. Usually the barrel is clamped and unmoving. The rifling tool rotates slowly as it is drawn through the bore.

@@Afro408 do you need special steel for barrels

@@andrejochimsen498 Yes. For this barrel, which is for black powder only, I use 12L14 free machining mild steel, but all high pressure nitro powder barrels are either CrMo or stainless barrel steel. Different grades for different manufacturing methods as well.

Lance. I wasn’t familiar with this particular mag spring and so I looked it up. Glock 17’s have a rectangular, spiral shaped wire spring and so a flat spring would not be suitable. The wire spring takes up less room and is much lighter. That’s why they use it. A flat spring would work, but would severely limit the mag capacity. The spring steel strip would have to be about 0.25mm thick. Flat springs don’t like being bent too far and that’s why coil springs are used more, because the wire is being twisted, instead of being bent. I’ve tried to cold wrap, rectangular coil springs and failed, because I think they are shaped when hot, then heat treated afterwards. I can only suggest that you get a couple of light coil springs, that will sit together in the mag body and try that. 🤷‍♂️ Best of luck to you. 😅

Thanks

Use music wire, there's 3d printed jigs with all the information and instructions. It's a bit complicated but I've seen people have success with it

Hi Lance. I don’t see why not. 🤷‍♂️

Thanks Glenn. 👍😁

G’day zooknut. That’s a good question. 🧐🤣 The answer to your question is, no. The trigger on this air rifle breaks at about 100g and so there is very little resistance and the rod is a piece of tempered music wire. Very stiff. The bullpup trigger feels no different than when the rifle is in it’s standard stock. Thanks for watching my poor video. 👍😁

Hi pr0xZen. I refer you to this article about the history. Interesting to note that the D bit had it’s roots in wood working. 😁 www.kays-dehoff.com/resources/history-of-gundrilling/

Hi Bilbo. It would be possible, if you could find some with a safe wall thickness. Something I was never able to do here in Australia. After boring this one, I asked a professional barrel maker friend of mine about how much runout he got with his dedicated carbide drills and he said that the tiny runout I got was enviable. 😁

@@Afro408 I'm sure!

@@Afro408 Wow, I just realized that that cutter is made of O1 steel. That's impressive. How do you mitigate heat buildup? I've tried to machine with non-HSS like that before and my tools just turn to mush.

@@bilbo_gamers6417 Thanks. Keep the tool sharp, slow cutting speeds, plenty of good sticky lube and don't push it. The only marks we could see, in the bored hole, were from trying to take too much in one cut. The chips built up and scored the surface. Otherwise it would have been nice and smooth. 🤔 I have made chamber reamers from old 4140, .17 or.22 barrels. Machine the shape oversize, cut the flutes, heat treat, finish grind to shape and cut a chamber in a new barrel. 😁 My years as a toolmaker have helped. 😉

​@@Afro408 Just coming back to this now that I actually know what 4140 is. You made reamers out of medium carbon steel? What's your tempering process like? I would be inclined to think any significant amount of temper on such a medium carbon steel would make it way too soft.

Interpretation please anyone?🤷‍♂️😅

You are talking through your hat. I’m retired now, but when we made this I had a Gunsmithing business and had already built several complete guns. 🖕

Watch 'The Colonial Gunsmith'

Yeah. Innit! 😅

Certainly is! 😁

Thank you mockingbird66. I made it from a piece of 1/2” diameter silver steel, which is o1 tool steel and hardened it. 😁

@@Afro408 I kinda thought that what it was. You have given me great inspiration. I'm gonna do this!! Thank you so much.

@@mockinbirds66 go for it! If you’re in the US, it is referred to as drill rod, because that is what it was mainly used for. Have you ever wondered how we ended up with some of the early rifle calibers? I used to, until I looked at the drill rod sizes and they match the pre reamed bore size of a lot of them. .22 rimfire for instance. 7/32” is its bore size. It is possible that this is the reason. 🤷‍♂️ anyway, I still have to cut the rifling, but I have no way of posting the video of that here. For some reason I can’t post anything. 🤷‍♂️😏 that’s why my channel has not had any new content for a while now. 🤷‍♂️

Translation please.

@@Afro408 he said "so beautiful"

Edson Silvano. Thank you! 😁👍

Thank you. 🙏

Ha ha!😅 It is pretty lively and for some strange reason, no one wanted to shoot it! 🧐🤣

Why, thank you, kind sir. 😁👍🏼

Your majesty 😉 A 9mm wad punch would be just right.

@@Afro408 thank you sir 🙏🙏🙏

@@bagheri4 You are very welcome, my friend. ☺️ I have since modified my forming tool and made the shank diameter slightly smaller, so that the gas check sides don’t get smoothed out and are not so parallel. This means that the slight burr on the disc is still there and when I size the check to the bullet, this burr gets a better grip on the bullet shank. As an experiment, I did make a couple of different gas check makers for a friend, similar to the ‘Free Checks 2 & 3’ , but I prefer this type, as they are very simple to make and remake if the check doesn’t come out right. Yes, it’s a bit slower, but I waste far less aluminium sheet and besides, it’s therapeutic. 😉 Regarding my last reply, see if you can get a 3/8” diameter wad punch, that may be better for the .270 bullet. I just worked out, that with a 9mm disc, you would be left with a side height if only 1.27mm.

@@bagheri4 For a bullet shank size of 6.43mm, I would make the forming tool with a shank diameter of 6.47mm (min) and with a disc size of 9.52, this would give you a gas check that is about 1.53 deep. Remember to put a slightly rounded corner on the forming punch, to prevent it cutting through. If you’re using the same 0.3mm thickness aluminium, then the forming die minimum diameter should be 7.17mm to 7.2mm. Now that I have modified my tooling, I don’t get any torn gas checks anymore. 😁

Hi TrisT. It’s possible that rotating the job and not the bit, helps, but getting an accurate start is the key with a D bit. D bits are very good at cutting straight holes. Modern Carbide D bits can cut a hole in one pass, to finished size and fine surface finish. I once drilled out an old 22-250 barrel, with an extended 1/2” twist drill and the resulting hole had a slight spiral to it. The spiral didn’t correspond with the original rifling twist, but was just the result of the bit trying to deviate, possibly because the cutting edges weren’t even. 🤷‍♂️ don’t know, but that rough drilled barrel shot a patched round ball into an inch at 75yds! 😁

Llll

A proper gun drill is self centering, and when used stationary in combination with rotating stock it should indeed stay very true.

But who cares? 😉😁Thanks for watching. 👍🏼

@@Afro408 Well based on this video, I would say you obviously don't. LOL

quit being a spanner. the video isn't even 10m and nobody made you watch it.

Bugger off and go watch the kardassiens then.... Muppet!

Hi Red. My advantage with this subject, is that I have had years of experience making small springs and heat treating them. The strip I use in this jig is called ‘Crinoline Strip’ which sounds like a dressmaking fabric, but it is already spring tempered and that’s what it is called. It is used for the cold forming and blanking of small spring parts. I tried to cold bend it and it will only stand being bent in gentle curves, but heat it up to a pale blue colour and it easily forms around this piece of 1.6mm dia wire and loses none of it’s springiness. I have completely compressed one of these ‘W’ springs and left it overnight, with no loss of set. Hope this helps you.

@@Afro408 Thank you for your insight.

Hello Giuseppe. That is most unfortunate for you, but in your case, I would just remove the motor and render it harmless and just a reminder of more liberal times. I don’t have to worry about the OH&S nannies prosecuting me for any breaches of their ‘Laws’ as I am just a private individual with some antiquated machinery that I love to use! 😉😁 and long may that be the case! 🤣